Bicycle route

Bicycle route
My cycle route

Thursday, December 23, 2010

Merry Merry from Mali

Ciao Ciao, and a merry festive season to all ~ hope the weather is fine and hot if at the beach, or dumping down with fresh snow somewhere up in those mountains.. have a BLAST!
I am now in Bamako, Mali's capital. Crossed the border a few days back and just as leaving Nioro, a town up in the north just over the Mauritania border my pannier carriage broke, for the upteenth time. The first repairs came were in Dakhla, Morocco, when the whole carriage decided to snap - got it welded by a family of mechanics, but who didn't do the greatest of jobs because as soon as I got into Nouadibhou, Mauritania the same place snapped again - again, another job to be done there, but at almost a quarter of the price as in Morocco. That job was better and lasted me throughout the country but outside Nioro she decided to go again..EISH! So, standing there somewhat stranded on the side of the road unable to ride a convoy of french cars pulled over and offered to give me a ride into the capital - the repsonse was immediate!
The Road of Hope is what alot of French and Belgians do, it's basically the road from the Gibralter crossing, northern tip of Morocco, through Mauritania and into Bamako Mali where they sell the cars at ridiculous prices,compared to what they were bought for. Mostly Mercedez vans, Mercs are everywhere here in North/West Africa. Bought for about a 100 euros in France they can be sold here for four or five times the amount - thats if you know the right people. The convoy turned out to be a father and daughter combo, each with their own vehicle, and then Jean-Pierre, who used to be a drummer for well known band in France but is now an electrician, but has all the characteristics, or qualities rather, of a ''rocker'': thin as a rake, smokes Marlboro reds, and plenty at that, wears ripped and faded jeans and only seems to possess a t-shirt once the sun has set - mind you driving in this intense heat without aircon I'd do the same, but sometimes I wonder in these Arabic countries - Mali is still muslim.
We puyt the bike into the back of one of the vans and I hopped into the daughters car - Aude, her name, turned 18 in November and got her license three weeks before driving the 6500kms down Morocco, through the desert and into this mad hustle and bustle that is Bamako. Found it difficult to get comfortable in the nice Merc seats when the roads are filled with potholes and the driver still very wet behind the ear, but and I can safely say this now because we have arrived in the capital, Aude, like her father who has been doing this trip for the past 15 years has a heavy right foot, just to keep up with with her dad careering down thr oad in front of us, Jean-Pierre in hot pursuit. The trip takes them 8 days from France.
Now in Bamako. A big capital with the Niger river running through it. The chinese bombarded the market 2 years ago with this little KTM, not the original, bike, sort of like scooters, and every man and woman here drives one so the air in the city is filthy with most people riding around with something to cover their mouth and nose, even pedestrians doing the same. But the atmosphere is incredible, especially compared to that of Mauritania where the people are hard because the living is tough when in a desert. There are more people in this cty than throughout Mauritania, and the traditional dress one sees most often there is replqced here with more western clothing, but not your Dolce gaban fakes etcetera but t-shirts and shorts, although the women still cover their heads- but everywhere you just see colours, and against a very dark Malian skin makes it all the more striking.
I opted to go around Senegal due to some bits of pieces of info I'd picked up from various other travellers having come that way and decided to head east out of Nouakchott for the Mali border close to a thousand kilomteres away. There are placesd and villages where you can't even imagine to think that people could live there, and where they get their water. The food is as basic as it gets and hot as all hell, and this is the coller winter months. Days would go as follow: ride until it got too hot, around 10 and then find a home or camel herder with a tent to share his shade, and then wait the day away until 5pm and then back on the bike to do the main stretches throughtout the night, until about midnight and then find either a quiet little spot to set up camp or a home to ask to camp outside.. normally waking everyone up but not seeming to bother them, I think they were more intrigued with this foreigner popping out of the blue on a bicycle! The food is basic, lots of dried dates, bread called 'five fingers': little minin baguetts that come stuck otgether in a set of 5 and then some sort of cous cous but not.. still not sure what it was but it tasted good with the sauce, also not sure what  from. Water came from wells scattered about, some reaching as deep as 20metres and here are these woman hauling up litres and litres a day.. power!
Mali has been short and sweet thus far. Loving the vibes, the people and generally peolpe are always smiling and wishing you a bonjour - most speak french or if not Bamara.
Sheizen, my hour is up and I must be off to go and see how my new team of mechanics are doing on my bike.
I know this is too short and very vague for all that I have seen, experienced and tasted, but I'd have to sit here for hours to try explain all the sights and sounds.. in a nutshell, just AWESOME!

Merry Merry from Mali!

Monday, November 29, 2010

Movember in Morocco

Wow, where do I even begin.. perhaps I should first make mention that this keyboard is in Arabic and everything else is in French - took me 20mins to just find POST NEW BLOG . I can see the inverted commas sign but it shares a key with three other symbols, and pushing shift gets me the wrong one of three.. so please bare with me as i struggle along here!

In short, because my precious hour has been taken trying to figure this all out I am strong, healthy and well in Agadir, a beachside town, renown for its great surf, 500kms south of Casablanca. Arrived here lastnight via bus.. yes, a bus, for reasons I will try to explain a little further down the page!

Literally and figuratively Morocco has blown me away. I was told that the prevailing wind swept across the Sahara from Cairo towards Dakar, from a 2 to a 7oclock direction.. this was told to me by a man who I think must have travelled the country during a different season. Fast approaching winter, the wet months, the weather and wind comes up from the equator and off the ocean.. headwinds all the way thus far.. beautiful! That aside, my little vent, everything else has blown me away from the warmest hospitality, to the tastiest pastries. Mint tea so good, but seriously sweet, to the constant delicious arom of good strong coffee wafting out from the many tea/coffee houses most Morrocan men seem to enjoy spending their time in whether arguing away or wathcng the beautiful game - football is as big here as I imagine it is in say Brazil!

I, with all my belongings, arrived safely and in one piece in Casablanca. I was stress about the bike not arriving - a great friend of mine travelled Morocco last year on a surf trip and had a nightmare of a time trying to find his board, I think it only arrived a few days later! An expensive night in a crappy hotel I was happy to be on the road the following morning trying to manouvre  seriously heavy bike through the bustling streets of the economic capital, boasting 8million population - after an hour I was happy to be on the outskirts and on the highway for El Jadida, 100kms further south. A combintation of a headwind and front disc brakes partially locked took me _ hours in the saddle to reach my first night stop; rolling in just as the sun had set. Found a cheap hotel and fortunately bumped into a nother cyclist, a Spaniard, who was heading back for Casablanca and who helped me sort out my front brake problem after finding me staring at the thing in bewilderment! Thank you Espanyol!

The next day was an incredible ride hugging the coast down to a beautiful beachside town called Oualidia. A group of surfers were having the times of their lives on some awesome waves - enjoyed watching them whilst listening and smelling the might of the Atlantic.

The following day was the worst to date in terms iof winds.. sheew! I had 65kms to Safi that took me seven and a half hours. At one stage it was so strong I would come to a complete standstill on a generous downhill. I tried laughing it off but then soon was back ito cursing mode as my floppy hat kept flapping up or down depending on the angle I held my head - as I said in my FB post, discomfort level at near maximum ~ although something tells me that is just a taste of things to come ;) come on the Sahara!!

As mentioned, this is the rainy period, and arrived in Safi as the heavens opened. I promise you somone is watching over me! Had to spend the next day there couped up in either my hotel room or a coffee shop trying to say dry: but Safi is a beautiful old town, one of the oldest in Morocco apparently, according to one of the locals. More rain was due for the next few days, and as I sit here in Agadir,  250kms further south, it is still raining.. with more on its way.

I hate being pressed for time but I have a flight to catch from Cameroon in April for both a wedding and a birth so I made the decision to hop onto a bus and make up lost ground due to the inclement conditions. I am not going or any records or out to prove a point to anyone, even myself - the point is the journey, whichever way it is undertaken, so say as you may, if theres anything, but I am glad to be a little further down the coast and closer to the drier Sahara where full days of being on the saddle will be plentiful ;) shoo, had to get that off my chest!

So to come to a close, because the hour mark is nearing, all is very well! Theres perhaps one of the biggest derby matches in the world this eve, Real v Barca and every second Moroccan man is either sporting one shirt or the other - not forgetting to mention a mustang thatd do any Movemberist seriosuly proud. There are more barber shops here than there are taxis and sportin a beard I feel somewhat overdressed ;)

Peace and Love:

Sunday, November 21, 2010

The Caravan

"leaving on a jet plane"

Fortunately for you, kind reader/follower, this will be the last posting before the really juicy, with all the nitty-gritty's, have-to-says start coming through. Today, at 19h20, my bicycle (which I hope to have a picture posted on here a little later on) and I will be on a plane headed for a brief stopover in Dubai, to arrive in Casablanca Tuesday afternoon 13h15 local time. Hopefully all my gear, weighing in 37kgs, will arrive without any problems, then hop into a taxi to find some cheapish hotel for the eve, assemble the bike, head out into town to explore, eat something, get a early night's rest and then early the following morning ride out quietly and start heading in a southerly direction, destination unknown..

This is going to be short because I've still got a bit of mad-dashing about sorting stuff out this morning ~ but I would just like to thank everybody for their support and also apologise to those whose calls I've missed and have failed poorly in returning.

If I had to write a last paragraph, this being the one, then I must mention that I am the luckiest man alive. Stefania, thank you! You have no idea!! My parents, as horrible as it is to see them so stressed out about this, I will never be able to thank you enough, for everything. Rob, without you I'd be walking - and Roberta, thank you for reminding me.. and I'm definitely going to be there for my godchild's birth.. with all my might! Marco and Sarah, I love you guys.. grateful that I have a plane to catch in Cameroon.. gonna give me the boost when I need it most! And everyone else, family and friends, thank you and I look forward to re-living this trip with you all upon my return..

Love and Peace.

Monday, November 8, 2010

Visual thoughts of present

Again, I've put off entering another post on this blog for the single reason that the trip has yet to start and what interesting news of views can I share with you when still living in a BIG frantic city... I am sure there must be something...

Two weeks today I will be landing in Casablanca. The plan will be to get on the move asap and head out from the chaos that lingers over any major city, get on the road and head for Marakech, a solid 2 day ride away ~ might make it three just to ease into it, and get the ass used to the seat. Perhaps I should just go with an ass, call him Africa and together make our way down south.. should the bike get stolen en route that'll be Plan B!

It's amazing how precious time is when you're pressed for it. There's still a mountain load of stuff to sort out, buy and sell over these last few days - when I rest my head back at night thoughts of the desert, the trip, the continent and the bike flood my last wakeful thoughts. It's that last hour of the day, when all distractions are sleeping or silent, that the mind ponders - like a well-oiled machine, seriously well-oiled!

Yesterday I bought a map of North and West Afica, all the way up to Cameroon, and highlighted the route to show those interested, and to know where I will be going. Estimated distance to Duoala, Cameroon, is 8000kms. I need to get there by 9 April '11 to jump on a flight to get to a wedding in Mozambique, and to the birth of my niece/nephew/grandchild on the 16th. That's averaging about 65kms a day, which isn't bad - but that's assuming I'm on the bike everyday ~ which won't be the case ~ the idea is not to fly through the continent at break-neck speed missing everything along the way. But there will be those days where a strong-tail wind can easily help clock 200kms in the saddle, perhaps more ~ so 65 should be about right.

Have just sunk a second and final cup of coffee for the day - and it's just past 9am (yes, it is a vice) - and the bpm's have picked up a couple of notches.. the rain with it overhead, beautiful.. and so with this 2nd wind I'd best be off and start ticking away all the things I need to do today etcetera.

Again I feel I should mention that these posts onto this blog will make for better reading once things are properly underway - so if you're still with me now thank you and don't give in, the best is still to come.

Man alive it's bucketing down.. like a sub-tropic downpour.. glory!

Grand day to you all..

Thursday, October 28, 2010

Going 'LIVE'

I've been in full-procrastination mode with regards to getting this blog 'live' - out there for whomever wishes to follow me through the next very interesting nine months or so - because, and as I mentioned in my first posting, tis a daunting task of note putting thoughts onto this bit of electric paper for all and anyone to read and judge. But once the trip is underway, and the posts start rolling in (or out), I won't be giving the slightest of hoots when it comes to thinking about what is being written and what people may think - so there's plenty of 'goodness' still to come, plenty!
 There will be days where the toughness of it all, and the want to just throw it all in will spill through my thoughts and onto this page, but please bare with me then ~ also ~ there will be those days where the joy of being so alive and free will ooze out of every word just trying to explain somewhat how and what I'm feeling: it could be an indescribable sunrise popping out of the Sahara that could either trigger off the "so far away from home" emotional downfall/breakdown - OR - "this is too good to be true" super-high feeling that gets the heart pounding, the smile etched and the want to WHOOP like a crazy-man!

I've got a super long list of things to do, things to get, stuff to sell (anyone want to buy my car: green golf 1 Life 216 000kms, good nik, best car in the world, starts first time everytime - includes handbrake and CD player) and then a host of other bits of random admin, and basically, really, keeping an eye on the clock and date for ETD time!

Getting the pannier bags today. Two 21litre bags that will sit on either side of the rear wheel. Once those are on then I'll be able to judge how much stuff I'll be able to take. The essentials: sleeping bag, tent, gas cooker and pot, passport/s, a hat and pen-and-moleskin-paper.. some citronella oil too. Emirates allows 30kgs - bike is already close to 15 - plus I need space for all the curios people are already asking for... I've told them they're dreaming.. I will have sand from the Sahara though - many a windswept day and sand in the eyes to come.. beautiful!

Great, I am glad I've managed to throw something onto this page. It's something, it's a start and the 'ball' has inched another tad further ~

Now all I have to do is somehow work out how to get this blog out there and known - fortunately I have a number of people really close to me going out there way to assist me in the making this dream come true.

Thank you.

And thank YOU for visiting.

!!
V

Monday, October 25, 2010

Anyone out there...

(Below is the proposal letter which I'm busy sending out to potential sponsors. It will give you a better understanding of my desire/dream/wish to spend 9 months, on an uncomfortable bicycle seat, riding through  "deepest darkest".)

Good day,

I am Paolo Magni (1980), a son of Africa. On November 23 I will be standing outside Morocco’s Casablanca airport, bicycle propped up against my trembling legs, gazing southwards to the horizon, heart pounding, and I imagine I’ll experience the lowest feelings of fear and loneliness to date. But once a few deep breaths have stilled the thumping in my heart and mind somewhat, the purpose of this trip, and why I’m standing 15000km’s away from family and friends, will finally kick into gear. My goal: to hug the Atlantic coast as I make my way back down to South Africa – searching for, living, experiencing and sharing the spirit of Ubuntu.

Traveling the length of my continent has been a dream since my early teens. It took a cold, February morning in London, four years ago to realize that I can make my dream come true. Von Goethe’s words ring true to my mission: “Whatever you do, or dream you can, begin it. Boldness has genius, power, and magic in it.”

This trip is unique in the sense that I want to live through the very real philosophy of the Ubuntu spirit, and to share the incredible stories of generosity and kindness of the people of Africa – most of whom have very little. Essentially, Ubuntu speaks to the idea that “it takes a village to raise a child” and expands it to the truth that it takes all of us helping each other to make the world a better place. We, as human beings, must sustain each other even in the hours of our direst perils. What fascinates me is not so much the diversity of lifestyles and cultures, but to what beyond the customs unites us deeply? In the mad rush of our world in crisis, I want to take the time to listen to the beat of this great continent and question what we are: Africa, and its people, offers the opportunity to experience where our human-nature, without the material influences of the First and Western World, truly lies and where it originates from? Have village elders been able to instill their traditions and customs, and pass on the meaning of Ubuntu onto the generation of today, or has the power and influence of the West become too strong and now, even in the remotest parts of the of a Third World continent, I wonder, and will soon find out, to what extent the young generation’s ideas of the future, and their personal success changed?

Sithandi Zingane is a project/drop-in centre for HIV infected children. Its vision: to provide support for poverty stricken families, needy children, orphans and those who are affected/infected with HIV/AIDS. The centre, situated near Brakpan, also has an orphan aftercare programme where around 70 children are picked up by bus daily. They are driven to the centre, receive a hot meal and then spend the rest of their day doing homework, playing and assisting in the vegetable garden. They also have a skills programme where HIV infected/affected mothers are trained in gardening and sewing. The centre also distributes food parcels every month to child-headed families and to people who are infected with AIDS, or in many other emergency cases. The feeding scheme provides 300 children daily with fresh cooked meals.

Sithandi Zingane is Ubuntu defined. A volunteer told me that to help orphaned children one has been touched by God. Half of all funds raised for this trip will go towards the Centre. People wishing to do more will be able to sponsor the trip (Centre) through a Rand-per-kilometre fund-raiser. Whether it’s R5 or R1000, all donations will go to the Centre, but specifically towards a facility of the Centres choice.

Upon visiting the centre I was touched by how the staff care and give of themselves tirelessly – these are people who have very little compared to the material-rat-race we so often get caught up in. One can forget that life and love is truly about giving, not receiving. I have chosen to contribute what I can towards this Centre because what’s being done there is beyond incredible. It is a miracle-project I am happy to now be a part of – even though ‘our’ contribution may be small in comparison, it is such a wonderful place, filled with good people and young innocent smiles who tomorrow, is our future.

I’ve decided to let go of everything that makes life secure and comfortable. I choose something else. I am tremendously excited by life, but I don’t think I’ll find it where I am. It is an ungrateful risk to give up everything that makes you happy in the hope that you can find something better. You risk not finding it. You risk finding it and then never being satisfied again, always yearning for more. But I am looking for experiences and memories that nothing, not the dimming light of old-age nor a world in crisis could take away from me. Uncertain travel holds an appeal for me, an alluring magic, an intoxicating release from conventional bonds, a chance for self-testing and self-discovery, and the rushing joy of being alive that I rarely find at home. Clarion calls to be alive and to treasure life.

On a bike you are living, breathing, hearing and smelling every mile of countryside. Yes, I will be moving slowly, but that becomes a joy in itself: the journey is the reward. The trip becomes more than just ticking off a list of must-see-sights. It is the people and places in between that forge the strongest memories and the greatest stories to share.

Would this trip interest your company? Would you be willing to offer whatever sponsorship you can and/or a chance of sharing my stories with your readers through your publication? Please contact me on: paolomsa@yahoo.com // 072 711 8444 // 011 883-2989.

Life is short. Go! Be!

Kind regards,
Paolo Magni